Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Crab Bisque: An Unexpected Holiday Surprise

When my family visits for the holidays, I have to re-think all my usual menus because I am cooking for two kids who can be picky eaters, and two vegetarians. It's the kind of audience that can make your eyes glaze over.

I decided that hearty soups would play a starring role in our holiday meals, and that I would start with my go-to Corn Chowder recipe I posted in the fall. With rare foresight, I had stockpiled sweet, just-off-the-cob corn in the freezer so I already had the main ingredient. To up the heartiness factor, I went to my favorite seafood vendor and purchased a few pounds of fresh Dungeness crab. Not only was the crab quite expensive, but I spent an hour cracking and picking the shells and claws to extract the meat. But the end result was worth it. My family loved the sweet corn and sweet crab combination, and even the diet-impaired devoured bowl after bowl.

I was about to discard the empty shells when I had a wiser, second thought. I stored the shells in the fridge and a few days later I made a luscious seafood stock. I wasn't sure exactly how I'd use the stock until certain factions of the family invited friends over for a post-New Year's dinner. Bryn contributed a wonderful chicken main course, Sonia created a sparkling green salad, and Doug made a batch of his popular candied pecans. I opted to make a crab bisque to serve as an amuse-bouche before dinner.

This is a two-step recipe, and I recommend making the stock a day or two before you want to make and serve the bisque. Since crabmeat is quite pricey these days, save this recipe for a special occasion.

Crab Bisque

For the Stock:
4-5 Cups crab shells
1/2 Cup dry white wine
1 Large yellow onion, chopped
1 Carrot, chopped
1 Celery stalk, chopped
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
2-3 Sprigs of thyme
3-4 Sprigs of parsley
1 Bay leaf
10-12 Whole peppercorns
2 Teaspoons of salt

Break up the crab shells by putting them in a plastic bag and using a rolling pin to crush them. Spread the shell pieces in a single layer on a baking sheet and put in a hot oven for about 15 minutes to toast. This really brings out the flavor. Remove and put it a large stock pot and cover with about an inch of water. Bring just to a simmer over medium high heat, but do not boil and do not stir. If foam forms on the surface of the water, just skim off with a slotted spoon. Cook like this for an hour, never stirring.

Male a bouquet garni with the thyme, parsley, bay leaf and peppercorns and add to the pot along with the wine, vegetables, tomato paste and salt. Simmer another 30 minutes, then remove from heat. Let the stock cool a bit before straining through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a clean pot. Discard the solids. This will make 2-3 quarts. Freeze if you aren't using it within a few days, reserving 1 quart for the crab bisque.

For the Bisque:
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 Cup shallots, chopped
3/4 Cup white wine
1 Quart of seafood stock
1/4 Cup white rice
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 Pound cooked crabmeat
1 Cup heavy cream
1/4 Cup port
1/2 Teaspoon salt
1/8 Teaspoon white pepper

In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat, add the shallots and cook gently until they are transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, stock, rice and tomato paste. Bring to a simmer and continue to simmer until the rice is completely cooked, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool a bit. Add most of the crabmeat to the soup, reserving some nice whole pieces for garnish.

Working in batches, ladle the soup into a blender and puree until very smooth. Return the pureed soup to the pot. Add the cream and port, then season to taste.

I served the bisque before dinner in the living room in espresso demitasse cups to universal acclaim. Everyone asked for seconds, although the bisque is very rich and filling. I am disgusted I did not take any pictures for this success story, but I have witnesses.