Sauerkraut and Chiffon Cakes

I'm not much of a cake baker, but today's Los Angeles Times Food Section reminded me of a surprising success I had a few years ago that made me want to get out the cake pans again. The Times' E section lead story features chiffon cake, which apparently was invented by an L.A. insurance salesman in the 1920s who in turn sold it to Betty Crocker who in turn created a mass market sensation when it was introduced to the nation in 1948. Instead of fading into oblivion as a mid-century culinary relic, say the editors, chiffon cake is still a darling today.

The old-fashioned charm of an almost 90-year-old recipe made me think of an old cake recipe that a friend gave me years ago. A neighbor of hers in Michigan, a lady of good German stock, shared an old family recipe that includes a novel way to use a humble but time-honored German ingredient in cake: chocolate sauerkraut cake. I'm not a sauerkraut fan so I was disbelieving until I tried the recipe and was astonished at how delicious it was. If you don't say anything to your guests, they will probably guess the chewiness comes from shredded coconut. Save the punch line for last and wait for the yelps of surprise.

Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake

1/2 Cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 Cups all-purpose flour
1 Teaspoon baking powder
1 Teaspoon baking soda
1/2 Teaspoon salt
1 1/2 Cups sugar
1/2 Cup butter
1 Teaspoon pure vanilla
2 Eggs
1 Cup water
3/4 Cup sauerkraut, thoroughly rinsed, drained and chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 8-inch round cake pans.

Sift the first five ingredients together. Cream sugar, butter and vanilla. Beat eggs in one at a time. Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture alternately with water. Add sauerkraut and mix thoroughly. Pour into prepared cake pans. Bake 30-40 minutes or until cake tests done.

When cake is completely cool, frost with mocha rum cream. Whip 1 1/2 cups heavy cream with 3 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon instant coffee, 2 teaspoons cocoa and 2 tablespoons rum, adding each ingredient slowly as cream begins to thicken.