Monday, June 20, 2011

You Say Basil, I Say Basil


Herbs were a scarcity in my childhood home. Fresh herbs were virtually unknown, neither grown in the backyard garden nor cultivated in little pots in the kitchen window. The only fresh herb I remember any of us picking was the wild mint that grew rampantly next to the hose bib, and that was reserved for my parents’ gin and tonics during the summer. Spices were limited to paprika to add color to potato salad, curry powder for my mother’s curried shrimp, nutmeg for eggnog during the holidays, and whole cloves and dry mustard for glazing the Sunday ham.

It was this paucity of experience that led to my confusion about Ocimum basilicum. I assumed the green, leafy herb I first discovered on pizza must be pronounced ‘BAZ-uhl,’ as in Basil Rathbone the actor, but later learned that ‘BAYZ-uhl’ was more common.

Much later in life, when I had my own backyard, I learned that basil is one of the easiest and most prolific of plants any gardener could hope for. And there are many varieties and hybrids that not only become lovely landscape plants, but give the cook endless reasons to use basil in hundreds of dishes. The French nailed it when they dubbed basil “l’herbe royale.” For me, basil is the quintessential scent of summer.

This year I planted Sweet Basil and a cultivar called African Blue, and after a few weeks of good heat, they were approaching three feet in height. Last week, my friend Jorge and I whacked them back and we each took an armload of fresh basil, he planning on tomato-basil sauce for pasta, I ready to make pesto.


Often grown for ornamental purposes, African Blue Basil is also great in a multitude of recipes. If left long enough in water, it will grow roots and could be transplanted into pots for growing indoors in the winter.

Basil Pesto

1/3 Cup pine nuts or walnuts
3 medium garlic cloves
2 Cups fresh basil leaves, packed
½ Cup extra virgin olive oil
½ Cup fresh grated Parmesan-Reggiano or Romano cheese
Salt and fresh pepper to taste

Everything goes into the food processor, in this order. If using walnuts, pulse them first with the garlic, then add the basil. Slowly add the olive oil in a constant stream while processor is on. Stop to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. Add the grated cheese and pulse again to blend. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: 1 cup. Serve with pasta, over baked potatoes, or spread over toasted baguette slices.

Basil is not limited to Italian or Asian food, nor should it be limited to savory dishes. A few years ago, my son and I embarked on a culinary adventure we will never forget. We indulged in a very elegant dinner at Chef Michael Schlow's Radius in Boston. Oddly enough, neither of us can recall what we ate for our entrees, but we both vividly remember the dessert we shared: basil ice cream. It was ecstasy, and we are still talking about it today. I’m not ambitious enough to make ice cream, but here is something I’m going to try next time I pick basil:

Balsamic and Basil Marinated Berries

4 Cups fresh berries (strawberries or blackberries)
¼ Cup fresh basil leaves, chopped. Save a few for garnish.
2 Tablespoons honey
2 Teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Wash berries and place in a large bowl. Set aside. In a small bowl, macerate the basil and honey together with a pestle. Add vinegar and whisk to combine. Pour basil mixture over the berries, toss to coat, and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes until softened. Serve over ice cream or pudding. Garnish each serving with a tiny basil leaf.

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