I had been cooped up for way too long while recovering from surgery (I am now the proud owner of a brand new hip), when I made a last-minute decision to make the long drive up the coast to see my family. It's not an easy trip when you're the only driver covering the 300 miles without any relief, but the scenery is gorgeous in the spring and I've made the drive so many times in the past that I know how to find every NPR radio station between Ojai and Santa Cruz to keep me amused.
It was somewhere around Paso Robles that one of my favorite NPR shows came on the air: The Splendid Table, a series of engaging dialogues between the host and a variety of chefs, food historians, nutritionists, culinary writers as well as listeners who call in with questions and comments. One of the first callers, who sounded like an experienced and knowledgeable cook, inquired about a good recipe for fish tacos, although when she described the way she prepared this favorite Mexican dish, I was convinced that hers was a very authentic recipe and I wondered why she was asking for recommendations.
The host, Lynne Rossetto Kasper, said she likes rubbing orange zest and garlic into the fish before grilling or frying it in a simple batter. Okay, I thought, that sounded interesting, although probably not authentically Mexican. But the key to a perfect fish taco, she insisted, was the crema which should be blended with minced garlic, chopped cilantro and lime juice. I agreed, but raised an eyebrow at how she made "crema": half sour cream, half mayonnaise. But here's where Ms. Kasper really lost me: she suggested topping the taco with finely sliced iceberg lettuce. "What!" I shouted at my car radio. Even the caller reacted with a gasp. "Oh no," she couldn't help blurting out, "fish tacos are always served with green cabbage, never lettuce."
As soon as I got home, I looked up several recipes for fish tacos to see if I could settle the lettuce vs. cabbage debate. Of course, I couldn't. I decided it was a regional proclivity. Those of us on the West Coast seem to cleave to the way they are made in Mexico (cabbage), while residents in other parts of the country are willing to substitute iceberg or Romaine lettuce. Californians have easy access to authentic Mexican crema and wouldn't dream of using anything but the real thing. Others will just have to made do with sour cream and mayo until their markets expand their ethnic product line.
In the meantime, here's a recipe I selected from the many I found. The rub for the fish imparts a very nice smoky flavor which I particularly like, and the crema is authentic. And yes, so is the shredded cabbage.
Fish Tacos with Cilantro Lime Crema
For the crema:
1/4 Cup thinly sliced green onions
1/4 Cup fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1/2 Cup Mexican crema
1 1/2 Teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 Teaspoon salt
1 clove garlic, minced
Combine above ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
For the tacos:
1 Teaspoon ground cumin
1 Teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 Teaspoon smoke paprika
1/4 Teaspoon ground red pepper
1/8 Teaspoon salt
1/8 Teaspoon garlic powder
1 pound white fish fillets like snapper or Talapia
Corn tortillas
1 Avocado, sliced thin
2 Cups shredded cabbage
Combine the seasonings in a small bowl and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the fish fillets. Spray a sheet of foil with cooking spray and fit into a shallow baking pan. Bake at 425 until fish flakes easily, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven and break up the fish with a fork. Heat the tortillas until warm and pliable. Divide the fish evenly among the tortillas and top with a spoonful of crema. Garnish with shredded cabbage, thinly sliced avocado and cilantro leaves. Other optional toppings: chopped jalapeno, tomatoes or red onions.
Crack open a cold Dos Equis.
It was somewhere around Paso Robles that one of my favorite NPR shows came on the air: The Splendid Table, a series of engaging dialogues between the host and a variety of chefs, food historians, nutritionists, culinary writers as well as listeners who call in with questions and comments. One of the first callers, who sounded like an experienced and knowledgeable cook, inquired about a good recipe for fish tacos, although when she described the way she prepared this favorite Mexican dish, I was convinced that hers was a very authentic recipe and I wondered why she was asking for recommendations.
The host, Lynne Rossetto Kasper, said she likes rubbing orange zest and garlic into the fish before grilling or frying it in a simple batter. Okay, I thought, that sounded interesting, although probably not authentically Mexican. But the key to a perfect fish taco, she insisted, was the crema which should be blended with minced garlic, chopped cilantro and lime juice. I agreed, but raised an eyebrow at how she made "crema": half sour cream, half mayonnaise. But here's where Ms. Kasper really lost me: she suggested topping the taco with finely sliced iceberg lettuce. "What!" I shouted at my car radio. Even the caller reacted with a gasp. "Oh no," she couldn't help blurting out, "fish tacos are always served with green cabbage, never lettuce."
As soon as I got home, I looked up several recipes for fish tacos to see if I could settle the lettuce vs. cabbage debate. Of course, I couldn't. I decided it was a regional proclivity. Those of us on the West Coast seem to cleave to the way they are made in Mexico (cabbage), while residents in other parts of the country are willing to substitute iceberg or Romaine lettuce. Californians have easy access to authentic Mexican crema and wouldn't dream of using anything but the real thing. Others will just have to made do with sour cream and mayo until their markets expand their ethnic product line.
In the meantime, here's a recipe I selected from the many I found. The rub for the fish imparts a very nice smoky flavor which I particularly like, and the crema is authentic. And yes, so is the shredded cabbage.
Fish Tacos with Cilantro Lime Crema
For the crema:
1/4 Cup thinly sliced green onions
1/4 Cup fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1/2 Cup Mexican crema
1 1/2 Teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 Teaspoon salt
1 clove garlic, minced
Combine above ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
For the tacos:
1 Teaspoon ground cumin
1 Teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 Teaspoon smoke paprika
1/4 Teaspoon ground red pepper
1/8 Teaspoon salt
1/8 Teaspoon garlic powder
1 pound white fish fillets like snapper or Talapia
Corn tortillas
1 Avocado, sliced thin
2 Cups shredded cabbage
Combine the seasonings in a small bowl and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the fish fillets. Spray a sheet of foil with cooking spray and fit into a shallow baking pan. Bake at 425 until fish flakes easily, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven and break up the fish with a fork. Heat the tortillas until warm and pliable. Divide the fish evenly among the tortillas and top with a spoonful of crema. Garnish with shredded cabbage, thinly sliced avocado and cilantro leaves. Other optional toppings: chopped jalapeno, tomatoes or red onions.
Crack open a cold Dos Equis.
Merrill, from a Midwesterner who loves fish tacos but who lives in Chicagoland and wsa introduced to FT by family in CA...what is Mexican crema or did I not read enough?
ReplyDeleteCrema Mexicana Is similar to sour cream but thinner in consistency and a bit more tangy. You can find it in the ethnic section of most large US supermarkets. If you absolutely can't find it near you, try blending equal amounts of sour cream and mayonnaise. Good luck!
DeleteI also questioned Lynn's use of Iceberg lettuce - really? I can't remember the last time I bought it but know it is not to be found at Whole Foods, my preferred grocery store. Thanks for the recipe. Going to give it a try tomorrow night while a snowstorm brews in Minneapolis. Happy healing!
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