We're Not in Kansas Anymore

Another road trip to Santa Cruz, this time to catch my granddaughter's dance performance with her baile folklorico group. This company of about two dozen little girls and a couple of brave boys practice for months under the tutelage of very dedicated Mexican-American instructors who insist on keeping every detail of the dance steps, props and the costumes as authentic as possible. Even the girls' hair and makeup conform to a strict set of rules: tight braids, no curls, colorful ribbons woven into each braid; eye shadow in multiple bright shades, lots of mascara, blush and lipstick.

The instructors handle so many dance groups, ranging in age from the very youngest to older teens, that it has evolved into a major community fiesta called "La Guelaguetza" that celebrates the indigenous communities of the Mexican state of Oaxaca, birthplace to many residents of Santa Cruz. It is so big in fact that lengthy and dramatic proclamations are read by all the local politicians as well as the Mexican Consul General in San Jose, every one greeted with a deafening chorus of "Vive Oaxaca!"

Grilled nopales and butterflied chorizo.

The twin highlights of Guelaguetza are the dance groups in colorful native costumes from all over Oaxaca, and dozens of vendors of tantalizing foods and drinks. I thought I had a passable understanding of Mexican food, but everything here was new to me. Women in traditional dresses grilled nopales and chorizo with onions and chiles. Huge, round blue corn tortillas were toasted crisp then slathered with beans, grilled beef, avocados, sliced cabbage and cheese -- the traditional "tlayuda," a complete meal in itself. I gobbled up a cup of "nieve de nuez," a light ice milk made from finely crushed walnuts, and then tucked into a leche quemada (burnt milk). And there was a huge variety of pan dulce to satisfy any sweet tooth.

Blue corn "tlayudas" hot off the grill.

Pastries are packed into baskets lined with colorful paper.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention that my weekend in Santa Cruz also included a piroshki lunch in a Russian deli and a lamb kabob dinner at the local Greek Festival, but those are stories for another time. It's hard to imagine more cultural diversity anywhere in just two short days. The flavors and smells and languages being spoken around me were totally foreign but absolutely fascinating, and reminded me that it's good to leave home every now and then.